Exploring the Black Perigord: Proumeyssac, Sarlat and Beynac


As the weather forecasts threatened, the day got rainy and cold, so we decided to visit that morning one of the many caves and caves in the area. Before, we went to the nearby town of Le Bugue to have breakfast at a bakery-cafeteria through which we had spent the previous afternoon. That Saturday was celebrated in Le Bugue The weekly market. In it you could buy fruits and vegetables, local cheeses, fish and even paella. We sat in the bakery and there was a couple of Basques (I guess because he was wearing the Atleti Bilbao shirt) and the girl said:

- I want a croissant and a coffee with milk.
- Well, you'll tell me how milks I ask!

In France there was practically no letter translated for tourists, let alone in Spanish, of course. But luckily, Míriam speaks French very well and made us a translator.

After breakfast, we headed to le Gouffre de Proumeyssac, a chasm near Le Bugue that has spectacular stalactites throughout the cavernous area. Although this well was not explored until 1907, the existence of its entrance was known since the Middle Ages. At first the residents of the area used it as a landfill and finally the criminals used it to throw the bodies of their victims, so the police ended up covering it, until in 1907 the vaults, which were totally rotten, sank. Then the owners sent for a pocero who came down in a barrel tied to a rope and a single candle to light up and then discovered the natural wonder of this chasm.

Formerly, to visit the chasm one had to descend with a basket that was raised and lowered by pack animals. It is currently entered through a tunnel subsequently excavated. Although if you prefer to go down from the top of the vault, you can do so by paying the entrance fee of 16.50 euros. We pay the normal (€ 8.60) and access the chasm by walking through the tunnel. It is really impressive the amount of stalactites that the water leaks have been creating and during the guided tour of 50 minutes we were explaining curiosities of this chasm and its history.

At the end of the guided tour we went to Sarlat, since on Saturdays the weekly market is also celebrated and precisely that Saturday the tourist office organized a guided tour in Spanish through the city and we wanted to buy tickets before they ran out. Among the market stops, the most important were food: cheeses, sweets, Foie gras, mushrooms, etc. We enter the covered market that is inside an old tuned gothic church and there a very nice salesman crammed us to gâteau of chestnut and nuts, sponge cake typical of the area and that he sold very skillfully, because in the end we bought him a couple of them.

After shopping, we went to eat at a restaurant. Sartat is famous for being the land of foie, and all the restaurants of the town are specialized in this delicacy. We ate at the restaurant Délice / L'epicerie Loser, which is next to the square of the geese. There we had the opportunity to taste a Foie gras from canard mi-cuit with onion marmalade and figs with toast that I was about to bite you. And for dessert, gâteau of walnuts bathed with Worcestershire sauce. I think that day Miriam and I ate a gâteau Whole both alone.

After the feast we went to look for the car and headed to do the check-in at the hotel Le more de Castel, where we spent two nights. The hotel is close to Sarlat, but it is a very nice and cozy cottage. After leaving the bags at the hotel, we got into the car and went to visit Beynac.